CPAA Member Spotlight: Ray Griffiths of Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry
From crafting one-of-a-kind high-end jewelry pieces using his crownwork signature to restoring European suites of jewels, designer and goldsmith Ray Griffiths has been delighting jewelry lovers for almost five decades.
"From the time I could speak, jewelry was all I expressed interest in," reminisces Griffiths about his eponymous brand, which he established in 1997 after moving to New York City. The Australian-born jeweler has been making jewelry since 1972, when, as a 16-year-old, he started a four-year jewelry apprenticeship with
two master jewelers and took classes with a jewelry professor. During this period, he learned how to make his now-signature style—an intricate crownwork pattern. Later, he obtained a diploma in gemology and studied diamond technology.
“Crownwork is the grid-like pattern evident throughout my designs,” he says.
Upon touching down in the States, his early years were defined by hard work, struggle, and perseverance. Arriving with only $20,000 to his name, Griffiths took a retail job selling clothes but soon found studio space where he started crafting jewelry. Within a year, Griffiths began working at Fragments, a now-defunct Soho-based jewelry showroom, to supplement his income. For almost nine years, Griffiths worked seven days a week, dividing his time between his studio and Fragments. Eventually he crafted a small collection, and since then he has never looked back.
“Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry was not an overnight success; it took a long time to happen,” he reflects.
He wanted his work to be defined by that regal crownwork motif from his early days. He even trademarked the pattern, which features diamond silhouettes with negative space, creating volume without the accompanying weight. "The pieces are easy to wear, and the motif adds to the luxury aspect because they are technically complicated," he explains.
Griffiths sketches the pieces in-house and collaborates with local casting and stone setters to craft them. Final items are made in his studio. “It’s a great way to put my final stamp on the pieces,” he adds. “My gold of choice is 18k because of its even consistency and beautiful color. As an accent, I use oxidized silver to set small stones, giving them a pop.”
Why are pearls your favorite gem?
I have always loved pearls. I’m Australian and every woman wears pearls in Australia. My first break in the pearl business came in my 20s when I started selling them in Sydney.
What is your best pearl memory?
As a young jeweler when I realized I could drill and repolish pearls if they were scratched.
Who is/was your pearl mentor?
My mother has always worn pearls and she is my all-jewelry mentor. She inherited a suite of English jewels and appreciates fine jewelry
and craftsmanship. I was 17 when my mother turned 50. My brothers and I pitched in, and I made her a pair of diamond earrings with pierced wires. She didn’t have piercings, but got her ears pierced for those earrings and wears them to this day. I’m even traveling to Australia soon to celebrate my mother’s 100th birthday
with a pair of peridot earrings.
Favorites
Hashtag? #newyorkdesigner
Type of pearl? Tahitians
Piece of pearl jewelry? A classic pearl pendant because it is so wearable.
Vacation spot? Paris to stay with my friend Cathy.
Way to spend a Saturday night? A small dinner party at home then "Saturday Night Live" on TV.
Coffee or tea? Coffee
Dogs or cats? Dogs
Wine or whiskey? Both
Ocean or lake? Both
Winter or summer? Summer
City or suburbs? City
Movie? Thelma and Louis
